Site administrator note – WiFi coverage was insufficient in the village of San Juan de Ortega to load photo files. The attached post is text only. This post for Sunday, April 22, will be updated with photos Monday evening, April 23rd. We hope to be better looking tomorrow.
It was a rather challenging day today as we walked 26KM with significant uphill, making our way out of the Rioja valley. The afternoon trail reminded me a lot of Michigan’s northern Lower Peninsula (the country roads and lovely pine/elm forests…the swarming gnats…minus the heated 30-minute debates on the best time to beat traffic at the Zilwaukee Bridge). We arrived at San Juan de Ortega (population 20) at about 4pm…but pretty beat. Not much here except a medieval monastery/church, one bar/restaurant, and as far as I can tell, a very active rooster. Based on our level of fatigue, we’re hoping this early bird is more of a night owl. Forgive the mixed avian metaphor…it’s been a long day.
We are going to Sunday Mass this evening at the 12th century monastery in the center of this very small village. It is amazing to think the place was built by monks almost a millennia ago. These places were beautiful…built to last…and decorated to tell a story. Our guidebook says the church “is famous for its decorative columns which depict the duel between Roland and Farragut the Giant.” My first reactions were “Wow…This place is old. AND…I have no idea who these 2 guys are…BUT what in the heck were they dueling about?”. Despite all my questions…I continue to be impressed by the faith of the people who built these churches and the connection and continuity that the local people still feel to their ancestors.
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Just got back from Mass…and it was a memorable experience. There is a pilgrim’s Mass at 6pm here on Sunday and, with rain clouds moving in right before the service, nearly 30 pilgrims (Catholic and non-Catholic) showed up and braved the very chilly temperatures in the church. The priest conducted the Mass in Spanish, but invited pilgrims from France and the UK to do the 1st and 2nd readings in French and English. As Mass proceeded, a thunderstorm was building outside. Two loud thunderclaps hit exactly at the time of the consecration and at the end of the Eucharistic Prayer. To say the least…sitting in a 12th century monastery church…with pilgrims on a spiritual journey from all over the world…hearing the Mass in multiple languages…then to hear those cracks of thunder at those specific times…it was…special.
Interesting things happen on the Camino.
Hello pilgrims
We do not know the reason but your story today, the church, the cold, the rain and the thunder, have evoked the film ¨The name of the Rose¨, based on the novel by Umberto Eco. (We do not know the title that he gave the movie in the USA).
Also on our way Selín and I read in a mass of pilgrims but in Spanish both without thunder.
Sweet dreams !!
I’m not positive….but I’m pretty sure that Roland and Farragut the Giant were part of Wrestlemania I (circa 1985). And for my blasphemy, I’m sure one of those thunder/lightening claps will get me on the beach tomorrow. But seriously, I think the mass is really what the whole trip is about; we may look different and speak different languages, but we all walk the same path through life.
Wowwww, the way you describe it I can really imagine the atmosphere… sounds magic. Magic moments that will stick with you forever!
I just looked at San Juan de Ortega on Google Earth. That really is a small town! The streets appear very narrow and more like paths. Thanks for the post. Be safe and have fun.